Jason Law

I wrote this article as a trial assignment for the Vietnam Times to gauge my writing ability. I researched the topic, interviewed people and took the photographs myself. The piece of work landed me the job.

The twin dragons of Tay Ho – An underrated hotspot for local nightlife

If you were a first-time visitor to the famously touristic city of Hanoi, you would undoubtedly be recommended a trip to Hoàn Kiếm Lake, and perhaps learn about the legend of ‘The Returned Sword’ from which the lake was given its name. 

What you might not hear about however, is its lesser known, but equally interesting (both culturally and historically) sister lake Tay Ho, and the locally famous dragon statues that stand amidst its waters.  

The twin dragons serve as a Hanoian landmark that is synonymously recognizable with the lake on which they reside. Their image is widely known to residents across the city, especially within the Tay Ho area, although people’s familiarity with them varies from place to place.

Robert White, a businessman from the USA, has lived in Hai Ba Trung for seven years but had neither seen nor heard of the statues before being asked.

Evan, an expat who lives just down the street from them, said “There is actually a very cool story behind them. They represent the dragon of the mountains (Lac Long Quan) and the dragon of the mountains (Au Co) who met over the Red River and together gave birth to the Vietnamese people”. Interestingly though, his Vietnamese friends pointed out that the statues aren’t actually related to that story and are only decorative. 

Secondary students at Marie Curie School in My Dinh, knew a little of their background – they are named Pair Dragons, were made in Bat Trang village, and are a “a great place for you and your family members to visit” (they’re certainly right about that!) but didn’t know much else about their background. 

The actual story behind the pair only adds to their impressiveness and beauty.

The majestic twin dragons were a gift to Hanoi from Bat Trang village, given in 2010 to celebrate the 1000th anniversary of the foundation of Thang Long. Their creation was an achievement in and of itself – built in Chu Dong Temple, each statue measures 15.6m by 8.5m, weighs 60 tonnes, carries a precious 57kg pearl in its mouth and cost 2 billion VND to produce – earning them a place in the Guinness and Vietnam Book of Records.

The Ly Dynasty-styled sculptures were initially displayed in Bach Thao Park during the ceremonial celebrations, before being moved to the surface of West Lake at the end of Nguyen Hoang Ton street in Tay Ho. With the statues representing 1000 years of Vietnamese civilisation and culture, their placement was very carefully decided – they were placed across from Phu Tay Ho temple, at the cross section of Co Loa and Ba Vi- all places of great spiritual importance to Vietnam. 

Upon the dragons’ arrival to their final resting place, pearls were scattered into the lake; a symbolic act intended to imbue the area and its people with sacred, positive energy and good omens. 

Perhaps it is these good omens that explain the intoxicatingly positive atmosphere that permeates the well-loved gathering spot on the street adjacent to the dragons.

By day, the area is a peaceful yet active destination; perfect for enjoying a quiet coffee or ice cream while taking in the view of the impressive, ceramic craftsmanship against the backdrop of the ever-growing Hanoi city skyline across the lake, which acts as a meaningful visual contrast of Hanoi’s prolific past and promising future. 

People of all ages happily gather for sunset, laughing and chatting away on plastic stools while appreciating the vista before them.

These 19-year-old friends didn’t know of the statues’ significance– they were simply there for the vibrant energy surrounding them.

When the sun begins setting, visitors come together to relax after a hard day’s work, and My is there, ready to swiftly offer you a seat and an ice cold juice, tea or beer while you take in the sights. 

My has worked there every day for ten years, and says that the winter months are very quiet, but when the weather improves (as it has been recently), it gets very busy – especially after 9pm. She isn’t exaggerating either; in the later hours, the hustle and bustle brings new life to the area. 

The environment transforms in synchronicity with the setting of the sun, as street vendors come out to serve an array of Vietnamese snacks and treats, nearby cafes and seating arrangements become abuzz with the late-hour chatter of the excited crowds, and people of all walks of life spend some quality time together in the aura of an icon of Vietnamese heritage. 

By the time night falls, the West Lake shoreline merges seamlessly with a sea of happy chatting faces that congregate at the junction closest to the legendary dragon duo. 

Trang sat with her adorable family enjoying some Tra Da and snacks, making the most of their Saturday evening. “We don’t come here often – it’s a rare treat. It’s a very popular and well-known spot though” said the mother of three. That was evident just by looking around – there were people happily huddled around tables as far as the eye could see. 

Families, couples, and groups of friends alike, all came to soak in the ambience. The feeling in the air was reminiscent of the excitement felt when exploring the Old Quarter for the first time as a newcomer. 

Hieu – a security guard tasked with keeping the spot safe and orderly during the busiest hours confided that although he doesn’t know about the history of the dragons, he knows it’s an extremely popular place to visit. Other workers in the areas confirmed Hieu’s words, as did the sight of the crowds. 

It seems that most of the people who frequent the historical, gorgeous and exciting hub of activity are unfamiliar with the history behind the dragons, but that doesn’t change the fact that it’s a wonderful place to go, and represents a fundamental part of Vietnam’s rich history.  Whether you’re a tourist, expat or local, you would be missing out on one of Hanoi’s best spots if you didn’t pay a visit. With summer approaching and the climate becoming more favourable to being outside, a stop at this iconic location should be high on your bucket list of things to do in Vietnam. 

Written by Jason Law

Photography by Jason Law